Lulu Kennedy on the birth of Fashion East.
In this interview, we take a closer look at Lulu Kennedy's remarkable career. Lulu has not only rewritten the rules of fashion but established herself as a beacon for aspiring designers. This interview is a testament to her indomitable spirit, relentless pursuit of excellence and undying commitment to nurturing the next generation of fashion talent. In this interview, Lulu Kennedy shares the wisdom and insights that have made her a revered figure in the industry. This is a story of inspiration, mentorship and the unyielding belief that fashion, like any art form, is a realm where dreams can flourish, and the future of the industry is brighter than ever.
Can you tell me a little bit about your early career in the fashion industry and the experiences that have led you to where you are today?
My background was actually in music; I was putting on raves in Italy. I had no intention of working in fashion even though I really loved clothes. I actually got into fashion by accident because I was working for the owners of the Truman Brewery in East London, renting out studio space to creatives. Being in the East End I was around a lot of young fashion designers that I’d met in the pub. I managed the studios at the Truman Brewery and I’d let them use the studios to make clothes or host model castings. After a few years of working with the owners of the Truman Brewery, they could see my passion was in helping young designers. They said, ‘Let's do a philanthropic project, for you to properly direct, it can be your main focus and don't worry about all the other jobs you're doing.’ They gave me the freedom to go and create this project. I'm so blessed to have been given the opportunity and to still be doing it now.
If you didn’t have experience in fashion, how did you know how to get things running?
It was a matter of reaching out to people who had expertise in fashion and having them mentor me and select designers in an objective way. We opened it out to become UK-wide and went through this whole selection process with a panel of people. The panel was made up of editors, stylists, buyers, and designers. I wanted them to give me a 360 understanding of the industry. We would sometimes have these long discussions about the selection process.
Back then did you have a goal for Fashion East or would you say it developed organically?
Yeah, it was definitely organic. I had no strategy because I wasn't in it for myself. I just thought, let's listen to the feedback from the panel and the designers who have lived experiences. In a way even though it may have been a longer way, there's something to be said about going slow and steady. We spent time building out our community, so it's got a legacy.
Would you say that those are the key principles and values that have guided Fashion East’s growth?
I think so, yeah. I mean, without wanting to sound purist or too earnest, because obviously, we do enjoy having a lot of fun and a lot of perks of freedom and creativity. I would say that our intentions and our way of practice have been quite pure. It’s been very transparent from the jump.
I shouldn't compare us, but what I'm saying is, I think what we've built is something solid, and it's got integrity. I think people warm to that. It's just not ‘clouty’ or like any of the other projects that are out there.
Fashion East has been instrumental in discovering and launching many successful designers, such as Jonathan Anderson, Saul Nash, Chet Lo and Simone Rocha. What qualities do you look for in emerging designers and what sets them apart?
When we select designers, we're really looking for someone who has a signature aesthetic and messaging. All of the designers who have gone on to do well have natural talent but they also have a good understanding of their aesthetics and environment.
Kim Jones is one of the most influential figures in fashion and he was an early supporter of Fashion East. How did you identify his talent or his support? What was it like working with him in the early stages of his career?
Kim is a phenomenon. Even when he was a student, he was operating at just a different level. He always had a very cohesive vision. You could break down his collections into categories, it was really well organised and thought out. He has a really incredible mind. He's super intelligent, plus very concise, and linear. I can't describe how advanced he was. There’s just something about him. He’s innovative, like the way he brought Supreme into Louis Vuitton. I was at that show; I can't stress enough, what a kind of moment that was in the industry, and how it felt, you know.
I would describe Kim Jones and yourself as disrupters. Would you describe yourself as a disrupter within fashion?
Disrupter? Yeah, I am okay taking on that title. I prefer that to ‘fashion fairy godmother’ which I can't stand. Yeah, I'm alright with that.
Despite all the challenges that come with running Fashion East, what keeps you grounded?
I honestly love working with the designers. We know we're up against the challenges of limited budgets, but we're going to creatively problem-solve together. I just find that it's very addictive and it’s become my purpose in life. I really enjoy working with the people as well, I love my team. Honestly, we just laugh the whole time were together, I am always sad to leave at the end of the day, it's just a very fulfilling thing for me. Lastly, I've carved out my own little thing and I'm very much left to my own devices to do it. So it's this feeling of satisfaction and not having things taken away from me. I appreciate and value my freedom. I never really count the years that have gone by. I'm just in the moment.